Five days in Copenhagen, Denmark + lazy lady porridge

Copenhagen from the Round Tower

Up until the night of our wedding, I had no idea where we were going for the first leg of our mini-honeymoon. Even after Thom broke the news, it wasn’t until we arrived at the Copenhagen train station (two days later) that it hit me: I was finally getting that Scandinavian vacation I had always wanted, regardless of the fact that I was so exhausted from wedding festivities that I would have been totally ok with going back home and hibernating until our South American honeymoon (which we’re on right now).

But I digress.

We had only been in Copenhagen for 12 hours and I quickly went from GET ME THE HELL OUT OF HERE to Can we stay here forever? Please? The city has so many kickass things going for it (Tivoli Gardens! Christiania! Bike culture! The food and the beer and THE COFFEE!), and we indulged in as many as we could squeeze in to our five day trip. Which, I’ll admit, involved a lot more eating and drinking than anything else because 1) we had just gotten married (!!!) and 2) I lost more than a few pounds in the weeks leading up to the wedding (you guys were right about that wedding stress-induced weight loss) and I was on a mission to gain it all back. And then some.

I think it’s worth mentioning that, contrary to what you hear, Copenhagen isn’t that expensive. We’d been told to expect everything to cost an arm and a leg but, aside from the hotel we stayed in on the first night (our Airbnb turned out to look a lot nicer on the internet than it did in real life) (which is because it wasn’t even the same apartment)*, everything was was pretty much on par with what things cost in Denver. Money aside, Copenhagen was fantastic and we really enjoyed spending our days wandering aimlessly through its funky neighborhoods. There aren’t many cities I’ve visited that I’d be eager to go back to again, but Copenhagen made it to the top of that list (along with Prague, Barcelona, Dublin, and Reykjavik). The people are friendly, the food is delicious, and the city is jam packed with just enough to keep you busy during a quick, five day trip.

*FYI: the fine folks at Airbnb remedied the situation and even bought us a few dinners.

YEAHCafe WoodhaUntitledCopenhagen from the Round TowerUntitledNyhavnFrederiksborg PalaceUntitledBabe at TivoliRound and round and round they goFlowers at TivoliConditori La GlaceBikin'Smoke breakKompa'9Peonies at Kompa'9The lakesKiimiaLazy afternoonOrstedparkenSweet potato blondieDay drinking

EAT

Hearty fare
Morgenstedet – Wholesome vegan fare in Freetown Christiana. Second best meal I had in the city.
Simple Raw – 100% raw cafe. I went for the veggie burger (which costs a lot more than it should) but I ate it over the course of two meals so the $20 price tag wasn’t nearly as difficult to swallow.
Cofoco Le Marche – Take away vegetable heavy eats. I still dream of their cocoa bites. Or whatever they were called.
The Laundromat Cafe – Just like their sister restaurant in Reykjavik, my vote’s still going strong for the vegan toast. Sounds underwhelming but I promise it’s delicious.
Atlas Bar – The best vegan meal I had in the city, hands down. Be sure to make a reservation, even on a weeknight (unless you arrive before 6PM).
Madglad’s Cafeteria – The interior feels a bit outdated but that doesn’t matter because their food is outta this world good. Buffet style with two entrees (one of which is vegan) and all you can eat salad + bread. We went for both brunch and dinner, but recommend their dinner service over brunch (which was pretty underwhelming).
Kimia – Delicious (and affordable) cafe-style grub in a cozy setting. Outdoor seating available.
Neighbourhood – Organic pizza (can be made vegan, without cheese) and cocktails made with fresh ingredients.

Snacks + sweets
Lagkagehuset – If you want fresh baked bread or pastries, this is the only place you should go. Lucky you, they have locations scattered all over the city.
La Glace – An assortment of beautiful cakes; one dairy free/gluten free option (contains eggs).
Botaniq – They serve up hearty raw food options, too, but I went for the dessert. A sweet potato blondie and raw cacao ice cream. Both were divine.

DRINK

Coffee
Cafe Woodah – Primarily a hostel but they have a funky little cafe, too. The soy latte is delicious, as are the smoothies. Just make sure you specify dairy-free if you go the smoothie route.
Copenhagen Coffee Lab – No dairy-free milk alternatives but the coffee’s so good you don’t need it. Go for the Americano.
Heritage Coffee & Bikes – We stumbled upon this place by accident and I am so happy we did. They have raw snack bars and make a mean soy latte.
Kaffe – Funky interior space and maaaaan do they make a killer a cappuccino.
Kompa’9 – Cozy atmosphere (I could sit near the window and people watch all day) and rice, soy, and almond milk options for us non-dairy consumin’ folks.
Ricco’s Coffee Bar – Another coffee shop in Vesterbro, which was right up the street from our Airbnb. It’s long and narrow and I imagine things get a little packed in the morning, but the coffee is more than worth taking a few elbows to the ribcage.

Juice
Juicy – Tiny juice bar in Vesterbro with delicious fresh juices.
ROD – MAKE YOUR OWN JUICE.

Booze
Maven – I don’t particularly care for wine (I know, I know), but Maven is the perfect place to enjoy a glass. Or three.
Mikkeller Bar – One word: microbrews.
Norrebro Brewhouse – If they have the lemon ale, go for it.

SEEK

Tivoli – Denmark’s second-oldest amusement park. Worthy of at least a few of your hours.
Orstedsparken – Take dessert and enjoy it on one of the docks.
Rosenborg Castle Gardens – Great place to lay in the grass and take a load off your feet.
Freetown Christiania – A socialist society known for its free-spirited inhabitants. Don’t take any photos. Unless it’s of your food.
Round Tower – Admission is cheap and you could easily spend an hour at the museum/cafe.

SNOOZE

We had originally booked an Airbnb in Nørrebro, but after we arrived and realized it wasn’t the same place that was pictured, we canceled our reservation and booked a new place in Vesterbro. I ended up liking Vesterbro better, so it wound up working out in the end. The apartment was cozy, beautifully furnished, and within walking (or biking) distance to pretty much every attraction in the city.

DAY TRIPS

Take a day trip out to Hillerød to see Frederiksborg. When you’re finished at the castle, spend an hour or two moseying about town, as they have a handful of vegetarian eateries and loads of cute cafes. If you’re into viking history (like Thom), a day trip to the Viking Ship Museum would be more than worth your time.

Lazy lady porridgeLazy lady porridgeUntitledLazy lady porridgeLazy lady porridgeLazy lady porridge

Notes: The last thing I want to do on vacation is clean dishes. Or spend money eating breakfast when I can make it from the comfort of ‘home’ for a fraction of the price. This is my go-to method for making porridge on the fly, with an electric tea kettle and not much else. I prefer to take mine unsweetened as I tend to gravitate toward more savory breakfasts, but feel free to stir in as much liquid sweetener (maple syrup, brown rice syrup, etc.) as desired. If you have nut butter on hand, that makes a delicious addition, as well.

LAZY LADY PORRIDGE

Porridge base
1 cup rolled oats
Heavy pinch of coarse sea salt
Filtered water

Toppings
Strawberries
Apricots
Raw walnuts

Bring the water to a boil. While you’re waiting, add the oats and salt to a bowl, then prepare any toppings you may like. Once the water is boiling, pour it over the oats just until they’re submerged, then cover with a plate and let sit for 10 minutes to allow the oats to absorb the water and soften. Bring the water to a boil, again, then pour over oats (while stirring) until the desired porridge consistency is reached. Top with fresh fruit, nuts, etc.

Yield: One big bowl

24 Comments

  • Reply Kimiko 3 September 2015 at 8:36 AM

    Sounds like a wonderful adventure, minus the AirBnB mess up, but free dinner – woohoo! Love reading your recaps. I’m getting serious wanderlust right now!

  • Reply Sydney | Modern Granola 3 September 2015 at 9:36 AM

    Your trip sounds amazing. I’ve never had the call to go to Copenhagen, but your experience and pictures are rapidly changing that. I hope your South American adventure is fantastic, and that we get to hear all about that too!
    xx Sydney

  • Reply Elizabeth 3 September 2015 at 12:46 PM

    i can not wait to see Copenhagen Your guide will be my bible :)

  • Reply Melissa 3 September 2015 at 2:01 PM

    Love your pics! I went to Copenhagen last fall and adored it too. I just wish it wasn’t grey and rainy when we went, you look like you had much better weather! I did think the city was pretty expensive–but that’s because I kind of wanted to buy all the Scandinavian housewares and knick knacks. Some restaurants were a ripoff and others were reasonable, so it was little hit or miss. We also did the day trip to Fredriksborg Castle and I was so glad we made the trek out there! It is definitely on my list of cities I would love to go back to too!

  • Reply Meg 3 September 2015 at 2:22 PM

    AH! Bookmarking this! Next summer we have a wedding at a Swedish island that is apparently accessible from Copenhagen, so we’re hoping to spend a few days there. So dreamy! And beer! xx

  • Reply Amy B in Portland 3 September 2015 at 2:22 PM

    I love your pictures and am stashing away your Must See Must Eat Must Drink lists. Enjoy this trip!

  • Reply Jessica 3 September 2015 at 3:46 PM

    You’re probably too busy with your own travel at the moment, but I would love the names of some of your fave Barcelona eats and drinks! Heading there in one week!

  • Reply The Friday List - Local is Lovely 3 September 2015 at 6:43 PM

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  • Reply Nana 4 September 2015 at 1:57 AM

    So glad to read you enjoyed Copenhagen! Gorgeous photos! Let me know if you ever come back (sounds like you might – Cph sticks with you!) I can give you some extra tips :)

  • Reply Kathryn 4 September 2015 at 7:58 AM

    Ever since we started watching Danish TV series obsessively, I’ve wanted to go to Copenhagen. It’s on the list for next year now for sure. I love your food photos, obviously, but your travel / lifestyle photos are really something special too. So much talent <3

  • Reply Becca | Spices and Spatulas 5 September 2015 at 8:51 AM

    Now I want a trip to Copenhagen AND a big bowl of porridge..at least the latter is immediately within my reach. Love your city guides, lady– keep ’em comin! xo

  • Reply Susannah (Lemon and Coconut) 5 September 2015 at 10:33 AM

    Are you working for the tourist boards of every place you visit MY GOD you make everywhere look so amazing! Thanks for sharing your memories with us and your stunning photos :)

  • Reply Jennifer Farley 7 September 2015 at 7:00 AM

    Beautiful photos. I visited Copenhagen 7ish years ago when my cousin lived there; it was one of the first overseas trips I took with my husband (we were still dating back then). It was just one stop on a Scandinavian journey and I have always felt like we didn’t spend nearly enough time there. It was just lovely. I felt that way about everywhere we visited. The people, the pastries, the architecture. I miss it.

  • Reply Flora 8 September 2015 at 3:22 AM

    Hello Ashlae!

    I’ve just visited your blog for the first time and this is the very first post I’ve read – safe to say you have a new Bloglovin’ follower! You piqued my interest when I saw the word wedding, and then I saw ‘scandavian holiday I’d always wanted’, and saw Rejavick featuring in your ‘where you’d return’ list, and I thought – THIS woman sounds just like me!

    Hurray!

    It’s so nice to feel so many clicks with you straight away, and such a treat to scroll through such lovely photographs and a well-designed blog while I eat breakfast this morning (which is, coincdentally, porridge!).

    I hope you have a lovely week, and nice to meet you!

    :)
    Flora

  • Reply Heidi Kokborg 9 September 2015 at 9:25 AM

    It’s so funny to see Copenhagen from your perspective. I am Danish so I am just so used to the city that I don’t really think about how amazing the city actually is! :)

  • Reply Anna 9 September 2015 at 11:00 AM

    aww this is so beautiful!!! love this city :)

  • Reply Mikołaj Baczyński 11 September 2015 at 5:43 AM

    Amazing photos o.O :)

  • Reply Anne 12 September 2015 at 1:42 PM

    I love your travel pictures so much -they all seem to possess the characteristics of the culture of every place you visit and it’s absolutely amazing and inspirational. I’m slightly curious though, how do you take all these gorgeous photos with a big dslr without looking like a tourist?

    • Reply Ashlae 13 September 2015 at 11:01 AM

      Hi Anne –

      I actually don’t keep my camera out that often. It’s usually tucked into my Kanken and I’ll take it out for ten minutes, shoot like a mad woman, then put it away. I always come home feeling a bit regretful because there are so (soooo) many photos that could-have-been, but I think it’s good to see the world with your own eyes, instead of through the viewfinder of your camera. So there’s that. :)

  • Reply Cassie 12 September 2015 at 7:42 PM

    Such beautiful colors and photos!!! ❤️

  • Reply Gry Sara Windelev 16 September 2015 at 6:39 AM

    Thank you for those nice words about my city, I love it to.
    A pity you didn’t go to The paper island (Papir øen), you would have loved it.
    Hope you find your way back some day.

  • Reply Nina 22 September 2015 at 12:52 PM

    Great! I was just planing to visit Copenhagen and was thinking that it would be great with reading a blog guide to locate new coffee and restaurant spots, came on your blog to read about the raw tahini balls but I see I was too early for that, but jackpot anyway! Thanks great tips here. P.s if you plan to visit Stockholm I have just made a little guide on my blog too :D

    • Reply Ashlae 22 September 2015 at 12:53 PM

      Hi Nina –

      They’ll be posted tomorrow morning! We did visit Stockholm and my guide is coming soon. :))))

  • Reply Maia 21 February 2016 at 9:46 PM

    I spent last semester in studying Copenhagen and these photos are making me so nostalgic. You’ve really captured the energy of the city. I hope you got a chance to check out Torvehallerne!

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